Laundry  Manual 


BY 


L.   RAY  BALDERSTON 

DIRECTOR  OF   THE  DEPARTMENT  OF  DOMESTIC 

SCIENCE  IN  BOARDMAN  MANUAL  TRAINING 

HIGH     SCHOOL,     NEW     HAVEN,     CONN. 

INSTRUCTOR  OF  LAUNDERING  IN 

TEACHERS'  COLLEGE,  COLUMBIA 

UNIVERSITY 


AND 


M   C.   LIMERICK 


INSTRUCTOR  OF  DOMESTIC  SCIENCE  IN  DREXEL 
INSTITUTE,  PHILADELPHIA,  PA. 


FIFTH  EDITION 
REVISED  AND  ENLARGED 


PUBLISHED  BY  THE  AUTHORS 

BALDERSTON  AND  LIMERICK 

1224  CHERRY  STREET 

PHILADELPHIA,  PA. 


COPYRIGHT  BY 
L.  RAY  BALDERSTON  AND  M.  C.  LIMERICK 


PRESS  OP 
THE  JOHN  C.  WINSTON  CO. 

1006-16  ARCH  STREET 
PHILADELPHIA 


PREFACE  TO  THE  FIFTH  EDITION. 

A  DVANTAGE  has  been  taken  of  the  opportunity  afforded  by 
•*-  *-  the  increasing  demand  for  a  fifth  edition  of  this  manual  to 
improve  and  enlarge  it  in  accordance  with  the  original  pur- 
poses of  the  book.  The  chapters  on  stains  and  cleansing  have 
been  enlarged,  and  chapters  on  the  methods  of  soap  making  and 
disinfecting  clothing  have  been  introduced.  Other  additions  have 
been  made,  all  intended  to  add  to  the  usefulness  of  the  book. 

MAY,  1913. 


(3) 

284995 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

CHAPTER  I. — Outline  of  Laundry  Work 7 

CHAPTER  II. — General  Laundry  Work 11 

CHAPTER  III.— Stains 18 

Removal 19 

CHAPTER  IV. — Table  Linen 26 

Bed  Linen 29 

CHAPTER  V. — Body  Linen 35 

CHAPTER  VI. — Flannels 42 

CHAPTER  VII.— Shirts,  Shirt  Waists,  Collars  and  Cuffs 45 

CHAPTER  VIII.— Colored  Clothes 51 

Stockings 52 

CHAPTER  IX. — Embroideries 53 

Laces 54 

Clear  Starching 54 

CHAPTER  X.— Cleansing 56 

CHAPTER  XI. — Disinfecting  Clothing 60 

CHAPTER  XII. — Making  Soap  and  other  Recipes 62 

CHAPTER  XIII.— Reagents 67 

CHAPTER  XIV. — Outline  of  Courses  for  Teachers . .  .72 


(5) 


CHAPTER  I. 

PROCESS  OF  WASHING  ALL  CLOTHES  IN 
GENERAL. 

Washing  is  a  mechanical  means  of  removing  dirt.  A 
clothes  board  is  used  and  the  clothes  are  rubbed  so 
as  to  remove  the  dirt.  If  some  of  the  clothes  are 
very  coarse  and  dirty,  they  may  be  cleaned  with  a 
short,  small  scrubbing  brush.  This  is  good  for 
hand  towels  and  overalls.  The  clothes  are  washed 
first  on  the  right  side  and  then  are  turned  and 
washed  on  the  wrong  side. 

Rinsing. — After  the  two  washings,  the  clothes  should 
be  rinsed  in  clear  water  so  as  to  remove  any  loose 
dirt  before  putting  them  into  the  boiler. 

Boiling. — The  clothes,  after  being  rinsed,  are  wrung 
and  soaped  all  over,  and  placed  in  the  boiler  with 
clear,  cold  water.  A  few  pieces  of  soap  may  be 
thrown  into  the  boiler  for  suds.  After  coming  to 
a  boil  the  clothes  should  boil  briskly  for  five  min- 
utes; briskly,  so  as  to  keep  the  scum  from  settling 
on  them.  If  they  are  not  clean  they  may  boil 
longer.  Use  a  clothes-stick  to  open  the  clothes 
and  to  take  them  from  the  boiler. 

Rinsing  is  again  necessary  after  boiling.  The  water 
should  be  cold  and  clear.  Two  waters  for  rinsing 
will  whiten  the  clothes  and  will  remove  all  soap. 
Clothes  should  always  be  rinsed  well  before  bluing 
as  the  soap  and  blue  combine  and  cause  iron  rust. 

(7) 


§'/'.•••"!.     ;  .        'Laundry  Manual. 

Bluing. — Blue  water  is  made  by  adding  indigo  to  clear 
cold  water.  If  lumps  of  indigo  are  used,  they 
should  be  tied  in  a  cloth  and  then  rubbed  in  the 
water  until  the  water  is  the  required  color.  Test 
by  holding  in  the  palm  of  the  hand,  or  by  bluing 
a  small  garment.  Blue  water  should  not  be  too 
deep  in  color.  The  bag  of  bluing  should  be  tightly 
squeezed  before  putting  it  away,  to  prevent  the 
wasting  of  the  blue. 

The  clothes  should  be  opened  well  before  going 
into  the  bluing,  so  that  they  will  not  be  streaked 
with  blue.  The  clothes,  if  quite  yellow,  may 
remain  in  the  blue  water  a  little  while.  The  water 
should  be  well  stirred  every  time  the  clothes  are 
added,  as  the  indigo  settles  to  the  bottom  and  will 
streak  the  clothes.  In  making  the  bluing,  the 
water  should  be  well  stirred  each  time  before  more 
blue  is  added.  After  bluing,  the  clothes  are  wrung 
and  are  then  starched,  or  not,  as  is  necessary,  and 
then  hung. 

Starching. — Thickness  of  starch  depends  upon  the 
articles  to  be  starched.  Starch  is  used  (1)  for 
stiffening  clothes;  (2)  to  make  them  look  well; 
(3)  to  keep  them  clean  longer.  In  its  raw  state,  it  is 
a  white  glistening  powder  found  in  all  cereals.  It 
should  have  a  long  cooking  or  the  clothing  will  not 
iron  smoothly.  Borax  is  added  to  give  a  gloss  and 
to  whiten  and  stiffen  the  clothes.  The  wax  or 
candle  will  keep  the  iron  from  sticking.  All  articles 
stiffened  with  hot  starch  should  be  dried  before  they 
are  sprinkled. 

In  using  cold  starch,  the  articles  should  be  thor- 


Introductory.  9 

oughly  dry  before  being  starched  or  they  will  not 
take  up  enough  starch  to  make  them  stiff.  Each 
article  should  be  squeezed  and  placed  separately 
in  a  cloth,  rolled  tightly  and  allowed  to  stand 
about  one  hour  before  ironing. 

Hanging  should  be  in  the  open  air.  The  line  should 
be  perfectly  clean  and  the  pins  clean.  The  line 
should  not  be  left  out  to  get  soiled,  and  the  pins 
should  be  scrubbed  well  when  soiled.  Always 
shake  the  garments  well,  hang  straight,  and  with 
the  wind. 

Folding. — When  dry,  the  clothes  should  be  stretched 
and  folded  carefully;  then  they  will  have  fewer 
creases  and  will  iron  more  easily. 

Sprinkling. — They  are  sprinkled,  rolled,  and  allowed 
to  stand  an  hour  or  so,  sometimes  over  night, 
before  ironing.  If  they  stand  some  time  they  will 
be  more  evenly  dampened  and  will  iron  more  easily. 
Pound  the  rolls  to  distribute  the  moisture. 

Irons. — Irons  should  be  of  various  sizes,  4  to  8  Ibs.; 
small  ones  with  points  for  small  clothing;  heavy 
ones  for  table  and  bed  linen;  polishing  irons  for 
cuffs  and  collars;  Mrs.  Potts'  irons  for  convenience. 
Iron  holders  oval  in  shape  are  less  likely  to  scorch. 
They  may  be  made  of  heavy  material  and  covered 
with  ticking  or  denim. 

Care  of  Utensils. — Wooden  tubs  should  be  scrubbed 
with  warm  water  and  soap,  and  clean  water  left 
in  them  to  prevent  shrinkage.  Set  tubs  should  be 
washed,  scrubbed,  wiped  dry  and  covered. 

Clothes  line  and  clothes  pins  must  be  frequently 
washed.      They  should  be  put  away,   as  soon  as 


10  Laundry  Manual. 

the  washing  is  down,  in  bags  or  boxes  to  keep  the 
dust  from  them.  Buy  a  good  quality  as  they  will 
last  longer,  if  properly  cared  for. 

Irons  which  are  rusty  should  be  rubbed  while 
warm  with  beeswax,  and  then  rubbed  quickly  with 
a  cloth.  Irons  are  improved  by  washing  frequently 
with  soap  and  water,  then  rubbing  with  sand  soap. 
Rinse  with  boiling  water  and  wipe  dry.  Place  on 
the  stove  and  when  hot  rub  with  beeswax.  Wipe 
with  a  cloth  before  using.  Irons  not  in  use  will  be 
kept  from  rusting  if  covered  with  wax,  or  grease, 
and  wrapped  in  brown  paper.  They  should  always 
be  kept  in  a  dry  place. 


CHAPTER  II. 


GENERAL  LAUNDRY. 


EQUIPMENT  OF  HOME  LAUNDRY. 


Agate  pan  for  starching. 
Bosom  board. 
Clothes  basket  or  pail. 
Clothes    boiler    (tin    with 

copper  bottom). 
Clothes  horse. 
Clothes  line. 
Clothes  pins. 
Clothes  pin  bag. 
Clothes  props. 
Clothes  stick. 
Clothes  wringer. 
Duster  for  lines. 
Flannel. 
Heavy  cloth  for  tubs  and 

boiler. 

Heavy  irons. 
Heavy  paper. 
Iron  holders. 
Iron  rests. 


Ironing  table  and  board 
covered  with  canton 
flannel  or  coarse  blanket 
and  a  fine  cotton  cloth. 
The  table  should  have  a 
drawer. 

Polishing  iron. 

Saucepan  for  starch. 

Scrubbing  brush. 

Set  tubs,  three  or  four. 

Skirt  board. 

Sleeve  board. 

Small  pieces  of  muslin  and 
cheese-cloth. 

Small  pointed  irons. 

Spoon  for  starch. 

Strainer  for  starch 

Wash  board. 

Water  pail. 

Wax. 


REAGENTS. 


Alum. 

Ammonia. 

Borax. 


Bran  in  cheese  cloth  bags 

9x9  inches. 
French  chalk. 


(ID 


12  Laundry  Manual. 

Hydrochloric  acid.  Other  agents : 

Javelle  water.  Bluing, 

Naphtha.  Kerosene, 

Oxalic  acid.  Paraffine, 

Salt.  Starch, 

Vinegar.  Turpentine, 

Washing  powders. 

OUTLINE  OF  LAUNDRY  WORK. 
I.     Preparation  of  the  Wash : 

Sorting,  Soap, 

Removing  stains,  Blue. 

Water  used, 

II.     Method  of  Washing : 

Soaking,  Starching, 

Washing,  Hanging, 

Rinsing,  Drying, 

Boiling,  Sprinkling, 

Rinsing,  Stretching, 

Bluing,  Folding. 

III.  Ironing. 

IV.  Folding. 

GENERAL  RULES  FOR  HOME  WORK. 

All  clothes,  whether  washed  at  home,  or  sent  out 
to  a  laundry,  should  be  plainly  marked.  If  sent  out 
of  the  house,  the  articles  should  be  counted  and  two 
lists  made,  one  for  the  laundry  and  one  for  reference. 
When  the  clothes  are  returned  from  the  laundry,  they 
should  be  recounted  and  aired  before  being  put  away. 


General  Laundry.  13 

Clothing  is  better  mended  before  being  washed,  but  if 
not  attended  to  at  that  time,  it  should  be  done  before 
the  articles  are  put  away.  A  certain  order  should  be 
observed  in  putting  clothing  away  so  that  the  same 
things  may  not  be  constantly  in  use. 

Washing  is  the  mechanical  cleansing  of  clothes  to 
remove  all  impurities  and  dirt.  This  is  necessary 
for  health  and  cleanliness.  All  clothes  should  be 
washed  at  least  once  in  two  weeks:  once  a  week 
being  still  more  cleanly  and  sanitary.  If  clothes 
are  only  washed  every  two  weeks,  they  should  be 
put  away  with  care  and  should  be  thoroughly  dry. 

Sorting  is  the  separating  of  clothes,  before  washing, 
into  the  divisions  in  which  they  are  to  be  washed. 

Table  linen,  Towels, 

Bed  linen,  Flannels, 

Body  linen,  Stockings, 

Handkerchiefs,  Prints. 

There  are  several  equally  good  methods  for  sorting. 
The  flannels  may  be  washed  first,  but  no  matter 
when  they  are  washed,  they  must  be  washed  alone 
and  with  great  care.  Embroideries  have  not  been 
classified  with  the  regular  laundry,  as  they  are  sel- 
dom washed  at  the  same  time;  and  also  because 
they  require  such  care  in  quick  drying  and  ironing 
while  damp,  that  the  laundress  has  not  the  time  to 
care  for  them  properly.  They  should  be  collected 
and  washed  when  there  is  time  to  care  for  them. 
Removing  Stains. — In  sorting  the  linen,  care  should  be 


14  Laundry  Manual. 

used  to  find  all  stains,  and  the  garments  should  be 
laid  aside,  so  that  each  stain  may  have  its  indi- 
vidual treatment. 

Table  linen  may  have  tea  and  coffee  stains,  grease 
spots,  chocolate  or  fruit  stains. 

Aprons  and  dresses  may  have  ink  or  grass  stains, 
and  rust  or  grease  spots. 

Sheets  and  clothing  may  have  grease  or  rust 
spots. 

Each  stain  should  be  carefully  examined  and 
removed,  if  possible,  before  any  washing,  as  the 
hot  water  and  soap  are  likely  to  set  stains. 

Clothes  which  are  damp,  and  allowed  to  lie 
folded,  are  likely  to  mildew.  This  is  a  vegetable 
growth  and  hard  to  remove,  as  it  attacks  the  fibers 
of  the  cloth. 

Reagents. — Soda,  ammonia  and  Javelle  water  should  not 
be  used  in  large  quantities.  They  loosen  the  dirt 
so  that  the  clothes  require  less  rubbing,  and  the 
work  is  done  in  shorter  time.  When  a  chemical 
is  used,  the  clothing  must  be  rinsed  very  thor- 
oughly, with  clean  water,  to  entirely  remove  any 
traces  of  it  from  the  fabric.  All  chemicals  should 
be  thoroughly  dissolved  and  mixed  with  water 
before  being  used  on  the  clothes. 

Soaking  Clothes* — With  cleaner  clothes  it  is  unnecessary, 
•but  if  clothing  is  very  soiled,  the  dirt  will  yield 
more  readily  if  the  garment  is  soaked  for  several 
hours  in  water  to  which  some  reagent,  preferably 
soap,  has  been  added.  The  clothing  then  requires 
less  rubbing  and  for  that  reason  garments  do  not 
wear  out  so  quickly. 


General  Laundry.  15 

Soap  Solution. — Three  quarts  of  water,  one  pound  of 
soap.  Cut  soap  into  fine  pieces,  cover  with  cold 
water -and  place  on  the  back  of  the  range,  where  it 
will  dissolve  slowly.  Enough  of  this  should  be 
added  to  each  tub  of  clothes  to  make  a  strong  suds. 

Washing. — If  clothes  have  been  soaked  over  night,  on 
wash-day  morning  wring  out  the  cleanest  clothes. 
Rinse  two  tubs  and  fill  half  full  of  hot  water,  put  in 
clothes  and  wash  with  soap.  When  washed,  wring, 
drop  into  second  tub  of  water  and  wash  a  second 
time;  then  wring  from  this  water,  soap  articles 
and  drop  into  the  boiler. 

Boiling. — Let  clothes  scald,  but  unless  very  soiled  do 
not  boil  long;  stir  and  press  clothes  down  in  boiler 
with  a  wooden  stick.  When  clothes  are  scalded 
take  out  of  boiler,  place  in  a  tub  of  clean,  hot 
water.  It  is  better  to  rinse  in  two  clear  waters 
before  putting  into  the  blue  water.  Wring  from 
bluing  water,  starch  or  hang  to  dry. 

When  the  first  set  of  clothes  is  scalding,  rub  out 
the  second,  in  the  same  manner,  and  then  continue 
with  the  third,  until  all  the  clothes  are  washed. 
Plenty  of  water  and  thorough  rinsing  are  essential  to 
good  laundry  work. 

Hanging. — After  clothes  have  been  blued  and  starched; 
they  should  be  hung  out  to  dry.  Sheets  and  table 
cloths  should  be  washed  first  as  they  take  a  longer 
time  to  dry.  Lines  should  be  fastened  very 
securely,  always  wipe  with  a  damp  cloth  before 
hanging  clothes  on  them.  See  that  clothes  pins 
are  clean  and  unbroken.  Every  piece  of  clothing 
should  be  turned  wrong  side  out  before  being  put 


16  Laundry  Manual. 

on  the  line.  Hang  articles  of  the  same  kind  to- 
gether. Fasten  by  bands  if  possible,  never  by 
corners,  as  the  strain  is  apt  to  tear  the  garment. 
White  clothes  should  be  hung  in  the  sun,  colored 
clothes  and  flannels  in  the  shade.  Starched  articles 
are  better  not  to  be  hung  in  a  strong  wind  as  it 
takes  the  starch  out  of  the  fabric. 

Folding. — Clothes  should  be  sprinkled  and  folded  as 
quickly  as  possible  after  they  are  dry.  Fold  all 
articles  smoothly  and  evenly,  and  roll  tightly,  and 
the  ironing  will  be  much  easier.  Place  a  towel  or 
piece  of  muslin  in  the  basket,  before  putting  in  the 
clothes.  Have  an  end  of  a  table  cleared  and  begin 
with  smaller  pieces.  Napkins,  towels,  pillow  cases 
may  be  folded  together.  Roll  firmly  and  wrap  a 
towel  around  each  bundle.  Starched  pieces  should 
be  protected  from  the  air  by  being  wrapped  in 
pieces  of  cotton  material.  Sheets,  pillow  cases, 
towels  and  underclothing  should  be  dampened  only 
slightly.  Table  linen  should  be  well  sprinkled,  and 
all  starched  pieces  should  be  very  damp.  Clothes 
iron  more  easily  if  they  have  been  dampened  and 
folded  several  hours. 

Ironing. — The  board  or  table  should  be  firm  and  un- 
warped  and  covered  with  a  soft  covering  and  then 
with  a  clean  covering  of  muslin.  The  irons  should 
be  clean  and  smooth.  A  newspaper  with  about  a 
half  cupful  of  salt  on  it  may  be  used  for  smoothing 
irons.  Rub  irons  in  the  salt,  then  on  a  piece  of 
cheese-cloth,  being  careful  to  wipe  the  sides.  A 
folded  newspaper  should  be  laid  at  the  end  of  the 
board  for  rubbing  the  irons,  also  a  stand  for  iron  and 


General  Laundry.  17 

a  piece  of  wax.  A  soft  cloth  and  a  small  bowl  for 
water.  Irons  become  smoother  as  the  heat  grows 
more  even;  for  this  reason  always  begin  to  iron  the 
coarse  articles  first.  When  coal  is  put  on  the  fire, 
the  irons  grow  cooler;  handkerchiefs  and  small  fine 
pieces  may  be  ironed  at  this  time.  Starched  clothes 
require  the  hottest  irons.  The  fire  is  kept  in  better 
condition,  and  less  time  is  lost  on  ironing  day,  if 
only  a  small  amount  of  coal  is  added  at  a  time. 
Every  article  should  be  ironed  until  it  is  dry,  and 
then  should  be  hung  on  a  clothes-horse  to  air. 
Folding. — Care  should  be  taken  to  fold  clothes,  ac- 
cording to  directions  given  under  special  chapters. 
Draw  clothes-horse  near  the  table  and  fold  garment 
by  laying  it  first  on  the  table,  and  then  into  its 
particular  fold.  Care  should  be  taken  to  put  all 
articles  carefully  into  the  basket  in  which  they  are 
to  be  taken  up-stairs. 


CHAPTER  III. 
STAINS. 

Character  of  Stain.  Reagent. 

Blood, Cold  water, 

Pels  Naptha  soap  and  warm 

water, 
Cold  raw  starch, . 


Brass, Lard, 

Olive  oil, 

Chocolate, Borax  and  cold  water, 

Tea, 

Coffee, Boiling  water, 


Fruit, Boiling  water, 

Javelle  water, . 


Glue, Vinegar, 

Grass, Pels  Naptha  soap  and  water, 

Ammonia  and  water, 

}  Alcohol, 

Molasses, 

Paste  of  soap  and  cooking 
soda, 

(18) 


CHAPTER  III. 

STAINS. 

Method  of  Removing. 

Wash  in  cold  water  until  stain  turns  brown,  then  rub 
with  Pels  Naptha  soap  and  soak  in  warm  water. 

If  thick  goods,  make  a  paste  of  raw  starch  and  apply 
several  times  until  the  stain  is  removed. 

Rub  either  lard  or  oil  on  stain,  then  wash  in  warm  water 
and  soap. 

Sprinkling  the  stain  with  the  borax  and  soaking  in  cold 
water  first,  will  aid  the  action  of  the  boiling  water. 

Spread  stained  part  over  a  bowl,  pour  boiling  water  on  it 
from  a  height  so  as  to  strike  the  stain  with  force. 

Use  same  as  for  coffee  stains. 

Use  Javelle  solution  and  boiling  water  in  equal  quantities 
and  immerse  stained  portion,  allowing  it  to  soak  a 
few  minutes,  then  rinse  thoroughly  with  boiling 
water. 

Apply  vinegar  with  a  cloth  until  stain  is  removed. 

Wash  in  Pels  Naptha  soap  and  warm  water. 

Ammonia  and  water  applied  at  once  if  not  on  delicate 

colors. 

Wash  in  alcohol. 
If  color  may  be  affected,  use  molasses  or  the  paste ;  spread 

on  and  allow  to  stand  for  several  hours. 


(19) 


20  Laundry  Manual. 

Grease, Warm  water  and  soap, 

Detergent, 

Ether, 

Gasoline. 


Indigo, Boiling  water, 


Ink, Milk, 

Oxalic  acid, 


Salt  and  lemon  juice, .  . 

Javelle  water, 

Collins'  Ink  Eradicator, 


Iodine, Ether, 

Chloroform, 

Pels  Naptha  soap  and  warm 

water, 

Iron  rust, Hydrochloric  acid 


Stains.  21 

Wash  in  warm  water  and  soap. 

If  heavy  clothing  rub  with  detergent  or  ether. 
Wash  in  gasoline. 

Wash  in  boiling  water.  Sometimes  boiling  the  article 
will  draw  out  the  spots  of  indigo  formed  from  im- 
perfect bluing. 

If  stain  is  fresh,  place  stained  portion  in  milk  and  allow 
to  stand.  If  milk  is  discolored  use  more. 

Wet  with  cold  water,  pour  oxalic  acid  on  the  stain,  let 
stand  a  few  minutes  and  then  rinse.  When  stain 
is  removed,  wash  in  water  to  which  ammonia  has 
been  added. 

If  stain  is  dry  and  well  set,  cover  with  salt  and  lemon 
juice,  or  use  Javelle  water  as  for  other  stains. 

Use  as  directed  on  the  box. 

Note. — Either  of  the  last  three  methods  is  likely  to 

extract  color.     If  the  kind  of  ink  is  not  known,  it  is  best 

to  try  the  different  reagents  on  a  small  piece  of  the  goods 

before  attempting  to  remove  stain.      Some  ink,  owing 

to  its  chemical  composition,  is  more  easily  removed  by 

one  method  than  by  another. 

Let  stand  in  ether  or  chloroform  until  iodine  is  dissolved 
and  disappears. 

Wash  while  fresh  in  Pels  Naptha  soap  and  warm  water. 

Spread  stained  portion  over  a  bowl  containing  one  quart 
of  water  and  one  teaspoon  borax.  Apply  acid,  drop 
by  drop,  until  stain  brightens,  then  dip  stain  at  once 
into  water.  If  not  removed,  use  same  method  until 
stain  disappears.  Care  should  be  taken  to  use  either 
borax  or  ammonia  in  rinsing  water. 


22  Laundry  Manual. 

Iron  rust,  Lemon  juice  and  salt, 

Kerosene, Fuller's  earth,      


Lamp  black, Kerosene,          

Pels  Naptha  soap, 

Machine  oil,  Cold  water  and  Ivory  Soap, 

Turpentine,      

Meat  juice,  Cold  water  and  soap, 

Medicine, Alcohol,  


Mildew, Lemon  juice  and  sunshine, 

Paste :  soft  soap, 

1  tablespoon  powd.  starch, 

1  lemon  (juice), 

salt. 


Milk, Cold  water, 

Cream, 


Mucus, Ammonia, 

Soap, 

Mucus  mixed  with  blood, . . .  Salt  and  cold  water, 


Stains.  23 

Sprinkle  stain  with  salt  and  moisten  with  lemon  juice; 

lay  in  the  sun.      This  method  is  slower  and  less 

likely  to  affect  material.     Either  method  will  extract 

color. 
Cover  the  stain  with  thick  layer  of  hot  Fuller's  earth  and 

let  it  remain  twenty-four  hours,  then  brush  off. 

Wet  with  kerosene,  then  wash  with  Pels  Naptha  soap 
and  warm  water. 

Wash  in  soap  and  cold  water. 
Rub  stain  with  turpentine. 

Wash  in  cold  water,  then  follow  with  soap. 
Soak  in  alcohol. 

Put  on  lemon  juice  and  let  stand  in  direct  sunlight. 

Cover  the  spot  with  the  paste  and  allow  to  stand  forty- 
eight  hours.  A  second  application  may  be  neces- 
sary. 


Wash  in  cold  water,  then  follow  with  soap. 

Soak  in  ammonia  water,  then  wash  in  cold  water  and 
soap. 

Two  tablespoons  salt,  one  quart  cold  water.  Soak  for 
several  hours.  Use  double  quantity  of  salt  if  articles 
are  of  thick  material  or  badly  stained. 


24  Laundry  Manual. 


Paint, Benzine, 

Turpentine, 

Perspiration, Soap  solution  and  sunshine, 

Javelle  water, 

Scorch, Sunlight, 

Stove  polish, Pels  Naptha  soap  and  cold 

water, 


Varnish, Alcohol,  — 

Turpentine, 


Vaseline, Turpentine, 


Wagon  grease, Lard, 

Olive  oil, 

Wax, Absorbent  paper  and  warm 

iron, 


Wine, Salt  and  boiling  water, 


Stains.  25 

Rub  with  benzine  or  turpentine.     For  delicate  colors, 
chloroform  or  naphtha  is  best. 

Place  in  sunshine,  having  been  previously  washed  with 

soap  suds. 
Javelle  water  may  be  used  on  white  goods. 

Hang  in  sunlight,  and  slight  scorch  will  be  removed. 


If  washed  while  fresh,  the  stain  is  easily  removed. 

Wet  the  stain  with  alcohol  or  turpentine  and  allow  it  to 
stand  a  few  minutes,  then  wet  again  and  sponge  off 
with  a  clean  cloth.  Continue  this  until  stain  is 
removed.  In  case  the  color  is  affected  by  alcohol, 
sponge  with  chloroform;  but  for  blue  material  use 
dilute  vinegar. 

Wash  a  fresh  vaseline  stain  with  turpentine.  Soaking 
may  aid  the  removal.  Stain  cannot  be  removed 
after  it  has  been  boiled. 

Rub  either  oil  or  lard  on  stain,  then  wash  with  warm 
water  and  soap. 

Scrape  off  all  that  is  possible,  then  place  blotting  paper 
over  spot  and  press  with  warm  iron.  This  will 
soften  wax  and  cause  it  to  be  absorbed  by  the  paper. 
If  there  is  color  as  from  colored  candle  wax,  use 
alcohol  to  extract  color  after  removing  wax. 

Put  thick  layer  of  salt  on  stain  as  soon  as  made,  then 
treat  with  boiling  water  as  fruit  stains.  Boiling 
milk  may  be  used  in  the  same  way. 


CHAPTER   IV. 
TABLE  LINEN. 

Stains:— Fruit, 

Tea  and  coffee, 
Chocolate, 
Grease, 
Iron  rust. 
Soaking. — Soak  table  linen  one-half  hour  in  lukewarm 

water. 

Washing. — Table  linen  does  not  need  so  much  rubbing 
because  it  is  rarely  very  dirty.     The  clothes-wringer 
should  be  loosened  for  all  table  linen  as  the  material 
is  soft  and  creases  easily. 
Rinsing,    } 

Boiling,      I  0 

„.     .          >  See  pages  7  and  8. 

Rinsing,     f 

Bluing,      J 

For  table  linen,  the  blue  water  should  not  be  as 
deep  in  color  as  for  other  fabrics,  because  of  the 
softness  of  the  material. 
Hanging. — All  table  linen  should  be  well  stretched  and 

hung  very  straight. 

Sprinkling. — Table  linen  should  be  thoroughly  and 
evenly  sprinkled  and  then,  when  ironed  dry,  the 
gloss  will  be  more  perfect  and  the  pattern  will  shine 
prettily.  Fold  evenly,  roll  tightly  and  wrap  in  a 
heavy  cloth. 

(26) 


Laundry  Manual. 


27 


Plate  No.  1. 
THE  FOLDING  OF  TABLE  LINEN. 


Bed  Linen.  29 

Ironing. — Use  heavy  irons  and  iron  dry.  Fold  table 
linen  by  folding  selvages  together.  They  may  be 
folded  with  either  three  or  four  lengthwise  folds. 
See  chart.  Napkins  should  be  ironed  partly  dry  on 
the  wrong  side,  and  then,  when  ironed  on  the  right 
side,  ironed  dry.  Fold  all  edges  very  evenly,  except 
when  folding  the  lengthwise  folds  in  half.  Here  the 
upper  half  should  be  drawn  back  about  one-half  inch, 
otherwise,  in  making  the  last  fold  this  part  will  be 
pushed  out  about  that  distance,  making  the  edges 
uneven.  This  applies  as  well  to  table  cloths,  sheets 
and  handkerchiefs.  Embroidery  on  all  table  linen 
should  be  ironed  on  the  wrong  side,  on  a  board 
covered  with  an  extra  piece  of  padding  over  which 
a  clean  soft  cloth  has  been  laid.  Doylies  may 
have  the  fringe  brushed  with  a  strong  whisk  broom 
rather  than  combing,  which  tears  the  fringe,  trim- 
med evenly  with  scissors.  Tray  cloths  should  be 
folded  in  three  folds  if  it  is  necessary  to  fold  them. 
It  is  better  to  lay  them  flat,  or  roll  around  a  paper 
roll. 

BED  LINEN. 

Stains : — Vaseline, 
Medicine, 
Iron  rust, 
Blood. 
Soaking. — Soak  half  an  hour  with  soap  in  lukewarm 

water. 

Washing. — Sheets  should  be  washed  on  both  sides  and, 
in  order  that  every  part  receive  attention,  they 
should  be  washed  systematically  from  one  side  to 


30  Laundry  Manual. 

the  other.  Pillow  cases  should  be  turned  wrong 
side  out  in  the  washing,  and  then  left  in  that  con- 
dition until  folded  for  ironing.  In  washing  bed 
linen  the  hems  require  the  most  care.  They  should 
be  well  soaped  and  rubbed. 

Rinsing, 

Boiling,      ,  0 

_.    .          >  See  pages  7  and  8. 

Rinsing, 

Bluing, 

Hanging. — Sheets  may  be  hung  out  full,  as  a  tablecloth; 
if  a  pole  is  not  used,  they  must  be  folded  in  half 
over  the  line.  Pillow  cases  are  hung  by  the  seam 
opposite  the  hems.  If  opened  to  the  wind,  they 
are  liable  to  be  torn,  as  there  is  no  opening  opposite. 

Folding. — Fold  hems  of  sheets  together,  having  sheet 
wrong  side  out.  Pull  until  even.  Fold  the  crease 
over  to  the  hems,  making  four  folds.  Fold  the 
outside  hem  back  to  the  crease,  having  the  right 
side  of  hem  out.  See  chart  for  tablecloths.  Turn 
pillow  cases  right  side  out. 

Ironing. — Care  should  be  exercised  in  ironing  hems. 
The  sheets  may  be  folded  with  the  ordinary  fold, 
or  may  be  folded  the  same  as  tablecloths.  (See 
chart  under  table  linen.)  Pillow  cases  should  be 
ironed  very  smooth,  especially  the  hems.  If  there 
is  embroidery  on  the  cases  it  should  be  ironed  first, 
and  on  the  wrong  side.  Always  iron  the  case  itself 
by  beginning  in  the  corner  where  the  side  and  end 
seams  meet;  iron  from  the  side  seam  across  the 
case.  The  cases  should  be  folded  in  thirds;  that  is, 
with  only  two  creases. 


Laundry  Manual. 


Plate  No.  2 
THE  FOLDING  OF  NIGHT  DRESSES. 


Laundry  Manual. 


33 


¥. 


Plate  No.  3. 
THE  FOLDING  OP  DRAWERS. 


CHAPTER   V. 
BODY  LINEN. 

Drawers,  Handkerchiefs,  Aprons 

Nightdresses,  Corset  covers,  Skirts. 

Stains. — Grease,  blood,  iron  rust,  vaseline,  medicine. 

Soaking. — Soak  one-half  hour  with  soap  in  lukewarm 
water. 

Washing. — Wash  in  warm  water  and  soap.  Wash 
drawers  and  nightdress  in  the  first  water  on  the 
right  side,  in  the  second  water  on  the  wrong  side. 
If  two  waters  are  not  used,  the  clothes  are  turned 
and  both  sides  washed  in  the  same  water.  Soap 
the  bottom  hems,  seams  and  bands  well  and  rub 
thoroughly.  In  wringing,  turn  the  buttons  inside, 
and  be  sure  to  turn  them  flat  so  as  not  to  force 
them  off. 

Rinsing,  page  7. 

Boiling. — Soap  bands,  seams  and  hems  well  before  boil- 
ing. Boil  briskly  for  five  minutes  and  then  rinse  in 
cold  water. 

Bluing,  page  8. 

Starching. — For  trimming,  the  starch  should  be  thinner 
than  for  the  body  of  the  garments. 

For  trimming  use : 

|  tablespoon  starch,         J  teaspoon  lard, 
\  cup  cold  water,  1  teaspoon  borax, 

1  qt.  boiling  water. 

(35) 


36  Laundry  Manual. 

For  body  of  garments  use : 

Ij  tablespoons  (instead  J  tablespoon)  starch.     Add 
the  cold  water  to  the  starch,  lard  and  borax,  stir- 
ring to  remove  lumps;   then  slowly  add  the  boiling 
water,  stirring  constantly.      The  starch  should  be 
cooked  slowly  one-half  hour  and  strained.     Borax 
stiffens  and  the  fat  smooths  it.     Add  a  little  blue 
water  to  the  starch.     Use  starch  very  hot.     Wring 
as   dry  as  possible  and  rub  in  with  the  fingers. 
Starch :  Cuffs  and  yoke  of  nightdress. 
Hems  and  tucks  of  drawers. 
All  of  corset  cover  with  thin  starch. 
Ruffle  of  skirt,  or  sometimes  the  lower  half. 
Hanging. — Hang  wrong  side  out  and  with  the  wind. 
Nightdress,  by  one  side  of  lower  hem. 
Skirt,  by  one  side  of  lower  hem. 
Drawers,  by  the  band. 

Corset  cover,  by  one  of  fronts,  or  thrown  over 
the  line  and  pinned  by  middle  seam  of 
back. 

Sprinkling. — Sprinkle  the  body  of  the  underclothes  well, 
but  not  too  heavily.  Rub  the  lace  and  trimming 
between  the  fingers,  which  have  been  dipped  in 
water.  Both  hems  and  trimming  should  be  well 
sprinkled;  the  hems,  because  they  are  thick  and 
the  trimming,  because  it  is  thin  and  likely  to  dry 
quickly. 

Folding. — Lay  trimming  all  inside  and  fold  in  the  hems 
before  folding  the  garment.  Roll  smoothly  and 
tightly. 

Ironing. — Iron  embroidery  on  flannel  and  on  wrong 
side.  Iron  all  garments  quickly,  ironing  as  large 


Laundry  Manual. 


37 


Plate  No.  4. 
THE  FOLDING  OF  CORSET  COVERS. 


Laundry  Manual. 


39 


4. 

Plate  No.  5. 
THE   FOLDING  OF  CHEMISES. 


Body  Linen.  41 

a  space  at  one  time  as  is  possible.  Iron  buttons  on 
the  wrong  side.  If  clothes  are  too  dry,  use  a  piece 
of  cheese-cloth  wet  in  clear  water  for  dampening. 

In  ironing  nightdress,  iron  the  embroidery  and 
tucks  on  the  sleeve,  then  the  sleeves.  Then  iron 
the  yoke,  the  body  of  the  nightdress,  and  then 
fold.  Run  the  iron  well  into  the  gathers. 

In  ironing  drawers,  iron  the  trimming,  tucks,  the 
band,  and  then  the  body. 

Corset  covers  should  be  ironed  with  smaller  iron, 
and  between  the  seams. 

In  ironing  skirt,  the  ruffle  is  ironed  first,  and  then 
may  be  laid  back  without  wrinkling  while  the  hem 
of  the  skirt  is  ironed.  Iron  the  band,  then  the 
body.  Do  not  fold  the  skirt  at  once  but  hang  to 
dry,  as  the  folds  are  usually  damp. 

Handkerchiefs  are  ironed  the  same  as  napkins. 

Towels,  with  the  exception  of  those  with  colored 
borders,  are  washed  and  boiled  as  body  linen. 
They 'are  ironed  on  both  sides  and  folded  in  three 
lengthwise  folds. 

Note. — Do  not  use  alkaline  substances,  as  soapine,  pearl- 
ine,  washing  soda,  for  diapers,  as  they  remain  in 
the  fabric  after  drying,  and  irritate.  Cloths  of 
this  nature  should  be  put  to  soak  in  cold  water  as 
soon  as  soiled.  Ammonia  may  be  used,  as  it  is 
volatile  and  so  will  leave  the  fabric.  Pels  Naptha 
soap  and  warm  water  may  be  used  in  place  of  the 
washing  powders. 


CHAPTER  VI. 
FLANNELS. 

Washing, — Four  short  rules  may  be  observed  in  wash- 
ing flannels : 

Wash  one  piece  at  a  time. 

Do  not  soak,  boil  or  rub. 

Do  not  wash  in  dirty  water. 

Wash  in  waters  of  same  temperature. 
Flannels  should  be  washed  either  first  or  last  so 
that  they  may  have  the   attention   they   require. 
They  should  be  passed  quickly  from  one  water  to 
another,  until  ready  for  the  line. 

Wash  in  lukewarm  water  to  which  melted  soap 
has  been  added — one-fourth  pound  of  Ivory  or  Wool 
soap  in  one  quart  of  water.  This  is  necessary  as 
soap  should  not  be  rubbed  on  flannel.  Wash  up 
and  down  in  the  water  without  rubbing,  if  possible. 
It  is  a  mistaken  idea  to  wear  flannels  as  long  as 
possible,  thinking  they  will  shrink  when  first  washed. 
If  this  idea  is  followed,  the  flannels  become  so  soiled 
that  rubbing  is  necessary.  /  Any  mechanical  treat- 
ment, as  rubbing  or  wringing,  causes  the  fibers  of 
which  flannels  are  made  to  shorten;  hence  the 
garment  shrinks. 

If  very  soiled,  use  1  tablespoon  ammonia  to  2 
gallons  of  water. 

In  many  cases,  better  results  may  be  obtained 
by  using  a  second  suds. 

(42) 


Flannels.  43 

Rinsing. — Rinse  in  two  or  three  waters,  all  of  the  same 
temperature  as  the  first  wash  water.  Adding  one 
tablespoon  of  glycerine  to  the  last  water  helps  to 
keep  the  woo!  soft. 

Bluing. — Blue  as  other  clothing  being  sure  to  have  blue 
water  same  temperature  as  the  wash  waters. 

Hanging. — Squeeze  as  dry  as  possible,  or  put  through 
the  wringer.  Shake  well,  pull  in  shape  and  hang 
to  dry  in  a  moderately  warm  place.  Flannels  often 
shrink  from  being  hung  too  near  a  fire  and  dried 
quickly. 

Hang  wrong  side  out  and,  when  nearly  dry,  turn. 
Blankets  may  be  stretched  in  curtain  stretchers 
to  dry,  instead  of  being  hung. 

Stockings  or  socks  may  be  dried  on  wooden  forms. 
This  is  frequently  done  for  children's  socks. 

Knitted  shawls  or  squares  of  flannel  should  be 
dried  on  a  sheet  placed  on  the  floor  or  table.  Un- 
less held  by  stretchers,  all  flannels  should  be  pulled 
and  stretched  into  shape  while  drying. 

Ironing. —  Underwear  and  stockings  are  pressed  off  after 
drying.  Press  stockings  on  wrong  side 

Flannel  shirts,  shirt  waists,  skirts  and  blankets, 
not  dried  in  stretchers,  may  be  ironed  by  laying  a 
slightly  dampened  cheese-cloth  over  the  flannel  and 
pressing  with  a  moderately  hot  iron.  In  removing 
the  cheese-cloth,  the  fibers  will  be  drawn  up,  giving 
the  flannel  the  fluffy  appearance  of  new  material. 

SOAP  FOR  WASHING  BLANKETS. 

1  large  bar  Ivory  Soap,         2  tablespoons  borax 
3  quarts  cold  water,  \  cup  wood  alcohol. 


44  Laundry  Manual. 

Shave  the  soap  into  the  cold  water  and  heat  to 
boiling  point.  When  cold,  add  borax  and  alcohol. 

Put  one  quart  of  this  solution  into  the  first  tub, 
one  pint  into  the  second  tub  and  then  rinse  in  clear 
water.  All  three  waters  should  be  of  the  same 
temperature.  Follow  the  rules  above  for  washing. 
This  solution  will  wash  four  pairs  of  blankets. 


CHAPTER  VII. 
SHIRTS,  SHIRT  WAISTS,  COLLARS  AND  CUFFS. 

Stains: — Rust, 
Grease, 
Ink, 
Font. 

Washing. — In  washing,  care  should  be  used  as  the 
color  may  fade.  It  is  well  to  guard  against  this 
by  using,  at  each  washing,  salt  and  water,  1  table- 
spoon to  1  gallon  of  water,  or  vinegar  and  water, 
|  cup  to  1  gallon  water.  Sometimes  one,  and 
sometimes  the  other  is  better.  If  it  seems  faded 
before  putting  it  into  water,  rinse  in  vinegar  and 
water. 
Rinsing. — Rinse  quickly  in  clear  water:  then  in  vinegar 

and  water,  using  proportions  above. 
Boiling. — Do  not  boil  colored  clothes. 
Starching. — The  whole  shirt  waist  may  be  starched  with 
starch  made  as  follows: 

If  tablespoons  starch, 
|  cup  cold  water, 
J  teaspoon  borax, 
1  qt.  boiling  water. 

Prepare  and  cook  as  described  on  page  35. 
Use  one-half  at  first,  and,  as  it  thins  and  cools, 
use  the  rest. 

For  black  waists,   the  starch  may  be  darkened 

(45) 


46  Laundry  Manual. 

with  one-half  cup  of  coffee  solution,  reducing  the 
boiling  water  that  much. 

Blue  waists  may  have  blue  water  added  to  the 
starch  before  starching. 

Do  not  add  blue  water  to  the  starch  for  pink, 
green   or   lavender   shirt   waists.      If   desired,    the 
starch  may  be  colored  with  corresponding  dye. 
Drying. — Hang  by  the  neck-band  so  that  it  will  dry 

well;  if  of  delicate  colors,  hang  out  of  the  sun. 
Cold  Starching. — Cold  starching  is  done  when  the  gar- 
ments are  sprinkled.  When  the  shirts  and  shirt 
waists  are  dry,  the  bosoms,  collars,  and  cuffs  may 
be  starched  with  cold  starch,  page  66;  roll  them 
separately  in  a  damp  cloth  and  lay  inside  the 
sprinkled  waist  for  one  hour. 

Sprinkling. — Sprinkle  as  other  starched  clothes  and  at 
the  same  time  the  collars  and  cuffs  are  cold 
starched. 

Collars  and  cuffs  are  treated  the  same  as  those 
attached  to  shirt  waists  and  rolled  in  a  damp  cloth. 
Ironing. — Shirts.  First  iron  the  bosoms  on  a  bosom- 
board.  This  is  a  small  board  of  about  the  same 
width  as  the  shirt  bosom,  consequently  the  bosom 
may  be  ironed  without  the  body  of  the  shirt  inter- 
fering. A  board  of  the  same  shape  may  be  fastened 
permanently  to  the  end  of  a  laundry  table.  It 
should  be  covered,  as  any  ironing-board,  with  flannel 
and  muslin,  but  not  made  too  soft. 

After  the  bosom  is  ironed,  remove  the  board; 
iron  the  neck-band  and  wrist-bands,  then  the  sleeves 
and  the  body  of  the  shirt. 

Shirt    Waists. — Pull    the    collars    and    cuffs    into 


Laundry  Manual. 


47 


f. 

Plate  No.  6. 
THE  FOLDING  OF  SHIRTS. 


Shirts,  Shirt  Waists,  Collars  and  Cuffs.  49 

shape  before  beginning  to  iron.  Lay  a  piece  of 
cheese-cloth  over  cuffs  and  collars  and  press  until 
each  side  is  partially  dry,  and  then  remove  the 
cheese-cloth  and  iron  until  perfectly  dry.  Next 
iron  yoke,  then  front  plait  and  the  rest  of  the  waist. 
Iron  as  quickly  as  possible,  so  that  the  waist  will 
not  need  a  second  dampening.  Pique  or  embroid- 
ered shirt  waists  should  be  ironed  on  wrong  side — 
excepting  the  sleeves — and  on  well-padded  ironing 
table,  so  that  the  cord  or  figure  may  stand  out. 

Collars  and  Cuffs. — Whether  the  collars  and  cuffs 
are  attached  or  adjustable  they  are  ironed  by  the 
above  method.  Turned-down  collars  should  be 
ironed  flat,  and  when  finished  should  be  rubbed 
with  a  damp  cloth  just  on  the  folding  line.  This 
will  soften  the  fold  so  that  the  turning  may  be 
accomplished  without  blistering  or  cracking. 

Collars  and  cuffs  are  rolled  in  the  last  stage  of 
their  ironing.  This  is  accomplished  by  passing  the 
iron  over  the  wrong  side,  at  the  same  time  curving 
the  '  collar  or  cuff  over  after  the  iron.  The  iron 
should  be  started  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  collar 
or  cuff.  This  should  be  repeated  two  or  three  times 
from  each  end.  Turned-down  collars  are  rolled 
after  being  folded. 

For  a  dull  finish,  collars  and  cuffs  and  shirt 
bosoms,  after  they  are  ironed,  may  be  carefully 
rubbed  with  a  slightly  moistened  cheese-cloth. 

Flannel  shirt  waists  are  washed  as  flannels.  See 
chapter  on  flannels. 

Silk  Shirt  Waists. — Wash-silk  waists  are  washed 
as  colored  waists.  Before  they  are  entirely  dry, 


50  Laundry  Manual. 

iron  on  the  wrong  side.  A  little  gum  water  (de- 
scribed on  page  64),  will  give  slight  stiffness  if 
desired.  Iron  as  silk  on  page  57. 

Laundry  Method  of  Starching. —  Use  five  tablespoons  of 
starch  for  this  instead  of  one  and  a  half  as  used  for 
the  body. 

A  cloth  should  be  stretched  on  the  table  and 
tacked  to  keep  it  smooth  and  tight.  The  starch 
will  be  like  a  jelly  and  should  be  rubbed  in  with 
the  fingers.  The  rubbing  is  not  complete  until  the 
various  thicknesses  of  material  are  as  one.  Then 
the  starch  must  be  wiped  from  both  sides  by  a 
damp  cloth.  In  finishing  the  rubbing,  see  that 
the  goods  are  free  from  wrinkles  and,  if  striped, 
that  the  stripes  are  perfectly  straight.  Hang  to 
dry. 

Sprinkling. — After  drying  the  second  time,  the  shirt  or 
shirt  wasit  may  be  sprinkled.  Dampen  the  bosom 
of  the  shirt,  the  cuffs,  the  front  plait  and  the  collar 
(if  attached)  by  rubbing  on  both  sides  with  a  damp 
cloth.  Sprinkle  the  rest  of  the  waist  or  shirt  evenly 
and  then  roll,  folding  the  heavily  starched  parts  in 
a  damp  cloth. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 
COLORED  CLOTHES. 

Stains. — Stains  in  colored  clothes  must  be  removed  with 
great  care,  as  the  reagents  themselves  are  likely  to 
leave  a  stain.  Often  the  original  stain  is  less 
noticeable  than  that  produced  by  the  chemical 
used  to  remove  it. 

Washing. — Colored  clothes  must  not  be  soaked.  They 
may  be  rinsed  in  water  containing  salt  or  vinegar. 
This  may  set  the  color  before  the  washing.  Wash 
as  quickly  as  possible  in  clear  water,  with  little 
soap.  Very  hot  water  will  dull  the  color. 

Salt  or  vinegar  may  be  added  to  the  rinsing 
waters  (there  should  be  two)  to  brighten  the  colors. 
For  proportions  see  page  45. 

Avoid  using  strong  yellow  soaps,  ammonia,  and 
all  washing  powders. 

Boiling. — Colored  clothes  must  not  be  boiled. 

Starching. — For  dark  goods,  the  starch  should  be  col- 
ored as  for  shirt  waists.  The  starch  will  show  less 
if  the  garment  is  wrong  side  out  when  starched. 
If  desired  very  stiff,  starch  after  they  are  dry,  as 
in  the  case  with  the  shirt  waists. 

Hanging. — Hang  in  the  shade  and  dry  quickly. 

Sprinkling. — Do  not  sprinkle  until  a  short  time  before 
ironing,  being  careful  to  wrap  each  piece  separately 
while  damp. 

(50 


52  Laundry  Manual. 

STOCKINGS. 

Washing. — Stockings  are  first  washed  on  the  right  side 
and  then  turned  and  washed  on  the  wrong  side. 
The  feet  should  have  special  care. 

Rinsing. — Rinse  in  clear  water,  as  the  rinse  water  used 
for  other  clothes  contains  lint,  which  will  cling  to 
the  stockings.  New  stockings  should  be  rinsed  in 
salt  water  to  set  the  color.  Stockings,  as  well  as 
colored  clothes,  are  not  boiled. 

Hanging. — Stockings  are  rinsed,  blued  and  hung  wrong 
side  out.  They  should  be  pulled  into  shape  when 
hung  and  pinned  to  the  line  by  the  top. 

Ironing. — Stockings  are  not  sprinkled,  but  are  ironed  on 
the  wrong  side. 

Silk   stockings   are  washed   in   same  manner   as 
silks,  pages  56,  57. 

Woolen  stockings  same  as  flannels,  page  42. 


CHAPTER  IX. 
EMBROIDERIES. 

Washing. — Make  a  suds  of  Ivory  Soap  and  warm  water. 
Wash  the  embroidery  up  and  down  in  the  suds, 
without  rubbing,  until  clean.  Rinse  thoroughly, 
as  soap  will  make  them  yellow.  Do  not  allow  to 
stand  in  water.  If  several  pieces  are  to  be  washed, 
wash  one  at  a  time  and  hang  out  straight,  so  that 
the  colors  will  not  touch  each  other.  By  the  time 
the  last  piece  is  washed,  the  first  one  may  be  ironed. 
They  may  be  ironed  at  once  if  preferred,  as  they 
should  not  be  sprinkled,  rolled,  or  folded.  Do  not 
blue  or  boil. 

Ironing. — In  ironing,  lay  several  thicknesses  of  flannel 
on  the  table  or  board;  over  this  place  a  clean,  soft 
cloth.  Iron  on  the  wrong  side  until  dry.  If  a 
large  piece  and  much  plain  linen,  turn  and  iron 
lightly  on  the  right  side,  where  there  is  no  em- 
broidery, to  give  a  gloss  to  the  linen.  If  a  circular 
piece,  iron  straight  across  the  grain  of  the  goods, 
instead  of  around  the  embroidery  and  then  in  the 
center.  This  will  prevent  the  center  from  puffing 
up.  Always  have  the  goods  perfectly  straight 
and  iron  with  the  grain.  If  inclined  to  pucker, 
have  some  one  hold  it  and  iron  straight  across, 
holding  the  iron  until  the  cloth  is  dry.  Do  no 
fold  but  lay  away  flat  or  roll  on  a  heavy  roll  of 
paper. 

(53) 


54  Laundry  Manual. 

LACES. 

Washing. — Baste  the  lace,  first,  on  strips  of  cheese- 
cloth, being  careful  to  baste  all  points  down.  Then 
put  the  lace  into  warm  soapy  water  and  let  stand 
for  some  time.  After  standing,  wring  out  and  put 
into  fresh,  soapy  water.  Squeeze,  shake  out,  and 
squeeze  again,  taking  care  to  work  gently  as  the 
threads  are  very  tender.  Do  this  until  the  lace  is 
perfectly  clean.  Rinse  in  clear  water.  If  yellow, 
lace  may  be  bleached  by  laying  in  sun  or  by  soak- 
ing for  a  few  minutes  in  Javelle  water.  A  final 
rinsing  in  borax  water  (4  teaspoons — 1  pint)  will 
give  a  slight  stiffness  like  new  lace.  Gum  arabic 
may  be  used  in  place  of  borax. 

Black  laces  may  be  made  ready  for  washing  in 
same  way  as  white  laces  and  then  washed  in  clear 
dark  tea  or  coffee  solution. 

Lace  curtains  should  be  well  shaken  and  soaked 
in  several  soapy  waters  before  being  washed.  If 
very  fine,  it  is  well  to  baste  edges  to  strips  of  cheese- 
cloth. 

Clear  Starching. — Laces  may  be  clear  starched  and  in 
that  way  given  a  little  of  a  new  appearance.  Judg- 
ment should  be  used  in  starching  lace  curtains. 
The  thinner  the  material,  the  less  likely  to  hold 
starch. 

CLEAR  STARCH. 

1  teaspoon  starch.  \  cup  cold  water. 

1  quart  boiling  water. 
Cook  $  hour,  strain,  and  use  hot. 


Laces.  55 

Dip  the  lace  into  the  starch  solution  and  squeeze 
very  dry.  Then  clap  in  the  hands  until  almost 
dry.  Clap  by  putting  one  end  of  the  lace  between 
the  middle  and  forefinger  of  one  hand,  holding  the 
other  end  in  like  manner  with  the  other  hand. 
Clapping  scatters  the  starch  through  the  meshes  of 
the  lace  or  fine  muslin.  Do  not  let  the  lace  dry 
before  ironing  or  stretching. 

Ironing. — If  ironed,  lace  should  be  laid  on  a  piece  of 
flannel  covered  with  a  soft  cloth.  Iron  on  the  wrong 
side,  being  careful  to  iron  out  all  the  points. 

A  much  better  way,  however,  is  to  fasten  the 
lace  to  a  pillow  or  stretched  sheet,  by  pinning  every 
point  down.  No  pins  should  be  inserted  in  any 
other  places  besides  the  points,  as  the  scallop  will 
be  out  of  shape  and  irregular. 

Lace  handkerchiefs  should  be  washed  and  partly 
dried,  then  put  in  the  hot  starch  and  wrung  out, 
then  clapped  and  ironed. 

Renaissance  lace  may  be  ironed  by  placing  over 
it  a  piece  of  muslin  which  has  been  wrung  out  in 
cold  starch;  over  this  lay  a  dry  cloth.  Iron  slightly 
with  a  hot  iron;  remove  the  starched  muslin  and 
complete  the  ironing  by  using  the  top  cloth. 

Lace  curtains  are  not  ironed,  but  are  stretched 
in  curtain  stretchers  and  dried.  Here  great  care 
should  be  used  in  pinning  the  points.  If  curtain 
stretchers  cannot  be  procured,  the  curtains  may 
be  pinned  to  the  carpet  which  has  been  covered 
with  a  tightly  stretched  sheet.  Curtains  may  be 
stiffened  by  using  bran  water,  page  64. 


CHAPTER  X. 
CLEANSING. 

Before  putting  garments  away  for  the  summer,  see 
that  all  the  soiled  spots  are  removed.  This  is  necessary 
to  prevent  moths. 

Woolens. — In  washing  black  or  colored  woolen  goods, 
it  is  better  to  first  rip  the  garments  and  then 
remove  the  linings.  Take  out  all  the  threads. 
Shake  and  brush  well.  Wash  in  soap  bark  or 
detergent.  Do  not  allow  to  become  dry,  but  iron 
while  quite  damp.  Iron  on  the  wrong  side  until 
perfectly  dry.  If  only  one  or  two  sppts,  cleanse 
witji  detergent  or  any  good  cleansing  solution. 
In  using  cleansing  solutions,  it  is  well  to  test  a 
small  piece  of  the  material  first,  as  sometimes  the 
colors  will  change  by  the  ether  which  is  present. 
Clear  water  and  a  little  white  soap  is  often  all  that 
is  needed. 

Undyed  Silks  may  be  soaked  for  a  few  hours  in  cold 
water.  Squeeze  or  lightly  rub  in  soaking  water. 
Wash  in  soap  lather.  A  little  dissolved  borax  may 
be  added  to  the  wash  water  if  the  silk  is  much 
soiled  or  greasy.  Wash  by  squeezing  more  than 
rubbing,  unless  the  soil  is  very  obstinate.  If  pure 
white,  let  the  last  rinsing  be  slightly  blued,  but  not 
for  cream  white.  In  last  rinsing  water,  whether 
blue  or  clear,  put  into  every  pint  of  water  one 

(56) 


Cleansing.  57 

teaspoon  prepared  gum  arabic,  which  will  give  a 
slight  firmness.  Wrap  the  silk  in  soft  cloth  and 
press  very  dry  with  the  hands.  Leave  it  rolled 
until  ready  for  ironing.  It  requires  no  drying. 

For  ironing,  lay  the  silk  on  the  table  right  side 
up  and  very  smooth.  Cover  with  a  thin,  smooth 
cloth.  Run  the  iron  lightly  over  it  at  first,  then 
iron  until  dry.  Colored  silks  and  stockings  must 
be  done  in  the  same  way,  but  without  soaking  or 
being  laid  aside  while  dampened.  They  should  be 
finished  off  quickly.  A  little  vinegar  in  the  last 
rinsing  water  will  help  brighten  and  set  the  color. 
All  silks,  except  the  stockings,  will  have  a  better 
appearance  if  a  little  gum  is  added  to  the  last  water. 
For  large  articles  a  little  boiled  starch,  much  di- 
luted, may  be  used  and  will  be  cheaper. 

Hangings  of  any  kinds,  which  are  full  of  dust,  should  be 
gently  but  thoroughly  shaken  before  being  wet. 
If  dust  is  not  removed,  it  becomes  a  kind  of  mud, 
which,  when  wet,  is  not  only  difficult  to  remove, 
but  discolors  the  fabric  permanently. 

Eiderdown  may  be  washed  in  the  same  way  as  flannels. 
When  nearly  dry,  press  on  the  wrong  side.  It  is 
a  great  improvement  to  the  garment  to  brush  it 
with  a  stiff  clothes-brush  after  ironing.  Brush  with 
the  nap. 

Light  Colored  Velvets  may  be  cleaned  by  brushing 
with  corn-meal  until  the  soil  is  removed.  All 
velvets  may  be  freshened  or  folds  taken  out  by 
steaming. 

To  Steam  Velvets,  stand  a  hot  iron  on  end  and  cover 
the  bottom  of  it  with  a  wet  cloth.  Over  this  pass 


58  Laundry  Manual. 

the  velvet,  holding  the  wrong  side  next  to  the  damp 
cloth. 

Cretonnes  should  be  washed  in  bran  water  to  which 
dissolved  soap  has  been  added.  The  material 
should  be  washed  with  a  kneading,  squeezing  motion, 
each  piece  being  washed  separately.  Wash  as 
quickly  as  possible,  not  allowing  to  soak.  Soak- 
ing, as  well  as  rubbing,  will  cause  colors  to  run. 
To  set  the  colors,  rinse  in  strong  solution  of  salt 
and  water.  Hang  in  the  shade  to  dry  as  the  sun 
will  fade  the  colors. 

Down  Quilts. — Shake  quilts  to  remove  dust,  then  soak 
in  lukewarm  water  and  soap  solution.  When  dirt 
is  loosened,  wash  with  a  kneading  motion.  When 
water  is  soiled,  change,  add  warmer  water  and 
more  soap  solution.  Proceed  in  this  manner  until 
the  quilt  is  clean.  The  edges,  if  very  dirty,  may 
need  to  be  rubbed  on  a  board,  but  this  is  likely  to 
take  out  the  color,  and  is  only  necessary  when  the 
quilt  is  very  dirty.  Rinse  in  clear  water  and  wring 
dry.  Hang  straight  and  change  position  while 
drying.  When  dry  lay  on  a  broad  table  and  with 
several  persons  holding  the  sides,  shake  well  to 
distribute  the  down.  The  quilt  may  be  pressed 
with  a  cool  iron  before  shaking. 

Ribbons. — Wet  ribbons  and  stretch  on  a  clean  table, 
then  scrub  with  a  small  brush  and  soap  until  clean. 
Rinse  in  clear  water,  keeping  ribbon  smooth  and 
straight.  Remove  some  of  the  water  by  running 
the  hand  down  ribbon  and  pressing  out  the  water. 
Stretch  on  the  table  again  and  allow  the  ribbon 
to  dry.  Wash  ribbons  may  be  ironed  with  a  cool 
iron  when  nearly  dry. 


Cleansing.  59 

Altar  Linen. — No  starch  or  bluing  should  be  used  in 
washing  altar  linen.  The  ironing  board  and  irons 
should  be  thoroughly  cleaned  before  ironing. 

Surplices  and  Cottas,  if  yellow,  may  be  whitened  by 
using  a  little  bluing  in  the  rinsing  water.  No  starch 
should  be  used.  All  the  embroidery  should  be 
ironed  on  the  wrong  side,  and  on  a  board  covered 
with  heavy  flannel. 

To  Clean  with  Gasoline. — Do  all  work  in  the  open  air. 
Gasoline  may  be  used  for  cleaning  or  removing 
spots  of  grease  from  any  material.  Mark  the 
spots  and  especially  soiled  places;  immerse  the 
whole  garment,  washing  all,  but  giving  special 
attention  to  the  grease  and  soil.  It  will  be  more 
satisfactory  to  wash  the  whole  garment  as  the  gaso- 
line is  very  likely  to  make  rings.  Rinse  in  fresh 
gasoline,  squeeze  dry  and  hang  in  the  air  until  dry 
and  the  gasoline  has  evaporated.  The  gasoline 
may  be  saved  by  allowing  the  dirt  to  settle  and 
pouring  off  the  clear  solution.  This  may  be  used 
for  the  first  wash  at  another  time. 

White  Kid  Gloves  may  be  gasolined  the  same  way.  A 
soft  brush  will  be  found  a  great  help  in  all  gasoline 
cleaning. 


CHAPTER  XL 
DISINFECTING  CLOTHING. 

Clothing  is  disinfected  to  destroy  all  germs  of  infec- 
tious diseases.  It  should  be  done  as  soon  as  removed 
from  sick  room.  Burning  is  the  most  effective  treat- 
ment but  many  could  not  afford  the  loss.  A  substance 
must,  therefore,  be  used  which  is  strong  enough  to  kill 
the  germs  and  not  destroy  the  fabric.  At  the  present 
time  some  of  the  best  disinfectants  known  are  extreme 
heat,  corrosive  sublimate,  formic  aldehyde,  carbolic  acid. 
The  last  three  should  be  used  with  great  care. 

Boiling. — If  clothes  are  to  be  disinfected  by  boiling,  the 
process  should  be  repeated  three  days  in  succession, 
an  hour  each  day.  Soap  or  soda  may  be  used  in 
the  boiling  water,  as  they  too  will  act  as  disinfec- 
tants. Three  successive  boilings  are  necessary  to 
give  ample  time  for  the  development  of  the  spores 
which  have  not  matured  at  the  time  of  the  last 
boiling.  Sunshine  bleaches  and  purifies,  still  further, 
the  clothes  which  have  been  boiled.  The  action  is 
more  rapid  if  the  material  is  moistened,  and  some- 
what soapy  and  if  spread  on  the  grass  so  that  the 
whole  surface  may  be  in  the  sun. 

Corrosive  Sublimate,  chemically  called  bichloride  of 
mercury,  is  probably  one  of  the  best  disinfectants. 
It  is  a  deadly  poison  and  should  be  used  with  great 
care.  It  also  acts  on  the  lead  pipe  of  the  plumbing, 

(60) 


Disinfecting  Clothing.  61 

so  should  be  well  diluted  if  poured  down  drains. 
It  is  well  to  color  the  water  slightly  with  indigo  so 
that  other  people  may  not  think  it  clear  water. 
The  bichloride  tablets  are  dissolved  in  water,  using 
one  to  one  quart  of  water. 

Formic  Aldehyde  is  an  equally  good  disinfectant  and 
probably  safer  to  use,  as  it  is  volatile  and  non- 
corrosive.  A  solution  is  made  by  using  one  part 
formic  aldehyde  to  eight  hundred  parts  of  water. 

Carbolic  Acid  may  be  bought  in  the  clear  filtered  form 
and  used  for  clothing  and  household  goods,  or  in  the 
brown  liquid  which  is  most  suitable  for  drains. 
Dissolve  the  crystals  in  water,  using  one  part  car- 
bolic to  twenty  parts  water.  Steep  the  clothes  in 
this  solution  for  one  hour,  at  the  end  of  this  time 
the  clothes  will  be  effectively  disinfected.  Carbolic, 
if  used  too  strong,  will  destroy  the  fabric  and  cor- 
rode the  skin. 


CHAPTER  XII. 
SOAP  MAKING. 

GENERAL  DIRECTIONS. 

Preparation  of  Fat.— Fresh  fat  or  oil  may  be  used  for 
making  soap;  but  fat  left  from  frying  is  equally 
good  and  more  economical  for  ordinary  soap.  If 
cooking  fat  is  used,  it  should  be  clarified  by  boiling 
in  it  several  pieces  of  raw  potato.  The  scum  which 
rises  should  be  taken  off  and  the  fat  strained  through 
cheese-cloth.  It  is  then  ready  for  soap.  For  toilet 
soaps,  fresh  oil  and  fat  should  be  used. 

Mixing  of  Soap. — Dissolve  lye  in  cold  water  and  set 
aside  to  cool.  The  lye  mixture  should  be  stirred 
with  a  stick.  Lye  irritates  the  hands;  hence  it  is 
better  to  protect  them  by  putting  paper  bags  over 

"C     them. 

If  borax  and  ammonia  are  used,  add  them  to  the 
lye  mixture  before  adding  the  fat.  Perfumery  is 
added  just  as  the  soap  thickens. 

All  soap  mixtures  should  stand  until  of  the  con- 
sistency of  honey,  and  then  be  moulded. 

Moulding  of  Soap. — A  small  quantity  of  soap  may  be 
moulded  in  an  agate  pan,  which  should  be  wet 
before  pouring  in  the  soap  mixture.  Larger 
quantities  are  cared  for  more  easily  by  pouring  the 
mixture  into  a  wooden  box.  In  this  case,  line  the 
box  with  several  thicknesses  of  yellow  paper,  greas- 
ing the  top  layer  on  the  side  next  the  soap. 

(62) 


Soap  Making.  63 

Individual  round  cakes  may  be  formed  by  using 
agate  gem  pans  for  moulds. 

Agate  ware  or  wooden  utensils  should  be  used  in 
the  mixing  and  moulding  of  soap,  as  the  lye  will 
eat  the  tin  and  so  ruin  a  good  pan. 

All  soap  should  stand  in  a  moderately  warm 
temperature  until  hard,  and  then  may  be  cut  into 
cakes. 

It  is  more  economical  to  dry  the  soap  by  spread- 
ing it  on  paper  in  a  warm  room. 

SOAP  No.  I. 

5  Ibs.  clarified  fat,  1  can  best  lye, 

Ij  qts.  cold  water,  lj  tablespoons  borax, 

\  cup  ammonia. 

SOAP  No.  II. 

5i  Ibs.  clarified  fat,          3|  pts.  cold  water, 
1  can  lye. 

TOILET  SOAP. 

1  Ib.  cotton  seed  oil,         10  tablespoons  lye, 

f  Ib.  white  lard,  If  cups  cold  water, 

5  drops  of  lavender  and  oil  of  geranium. 

INDIVIDUAL  RECIPE. 
(For  Class  Work.) 

J  tsp.  lye,  3|  tsp.  cold  water, 

5 1  tsp.  clarified  fat. 


64  Laundry  Manual. 

RECIPES. 

BRAN  WATER. 
|  cup  wheat  bran,  1  pt.  cold  water. 

Mix  the  cold  water  with  the  bran.  Boil  one-half  hour, 
then  strain  and  add  another  pint  of  warm  water.  If 
articles  are  greasy  or  very  dirty,  add  melted  soap  to  the 
bran  preparation.  Wash  by  squeezing  and  shaking  in 
water  as  rubbing  causes  the  color  to  run.  Bran  water 
will  stiffen  articles  washed  in  it.  If  stiffness  is  not  de- 
sired, rinse  articles  in  salt  and  water. 

GUM  WATER. 
1  oz.  best  gum  arabic,     J  pt.  boiling  water. 

Pour  the  water  over  the  gum  and  let  stand.  Stir  occa- 
sionally until  dissolved.  Strain  through  fine  muslin, 
then  bottle.  This  will  keep  a  long  time  and  may  be 
used  according  to  the  stiffness  required. 

JAVELLE  WATER. 

1  Ib.  washing  soda,          J  Ib.  chloride  of  lime, 
1  qt.  boiling  water,          2  qts.  cold  water. 

Put  the  soda  into  an  agate  pan  and  add  the  boiling 
water.  Dissolve  the  lime  in  the  cold  water.  Let  the 
mixture  settle  and  pour  the  clear  liquid  into  the  dissolved 
soda.  Bottle,  and  keep  in  a  dark  place. 

Javelle  water  forms  a  very  efficient  bleaching  liquid 
for  unbleached  fabrics,  as  well  as  for  cotton  goods  that 
have  become  yellow  with  dirt  and  age.  To  remove 
stains  from  white  goods,  soak  the  article  in  equal  quan- 


Recipes.  65 

titles  of  Javelle  water  and  hot  water  until  the  stain 
disappears;  then  rinse  thoroughly  in  several  waters,  and 
finally  in  dilute  ammonia  water.  Articles  washed  in 
Javelle  water  have  a  strong  odor  of  the  chloride  of  lime, 
and  the  final  washing  in  water  to  which  ammonia  has 
been  added  will  help  to  destroy  this  odor.  Use  1  table- 
spoon of  ammonia  in  2  quarts  of  water.  Javelle  removes 
all  stains  and  all  colors,  and  therefore  should  not  be  used 
on  colored  goods.  If  articles  remain  too  long  in  the 
Javelle  water,  the  fiber  will  be  injured. 

DETERGENT. 

1^  oz.  white  castile  soap,     1  oz.  ether, 

1  oz.  alcohol,  4  oz.  ammonia. 

Cut  soap  fine  and  heat  in  1  pint  of  soft  water  until 
dissolved.  Then  add  3  quarts  of  cold  water  and  the 
other  ingredients.  For  cleaning  black  goods,  use  1  wine 
glass  of  this  liquid  in  1  pint  warm  water.  If  this  makes 
the  article  too  stiff,  add  more  water.  For  removing 
spots  from  woolen  goods,  as  men's  clothing,  apply  (only 
slightly  diluted)  with  a  sponge.  It  is  always  safer  to 
test  any  cleansing  solution  with  a  piece  of  the  material 
before  attempting  to  remove  stain,  as  the  ether  may 
affect  the  color. 

ALUM  WATER. 

2  oz.  alum,  1  gal.  water. 

This  is  used  for  rinsing  curtains,  muslin  hangings  and 
children's  dresses,  rendering  them  non-inflammable. 


66  Laundry  Manual. 

COLD  STARCH. 

2  tablespoons  laundry  starch 
|  teaspoon  borax, 
2  cups  cold  water. 

Dissolve  the  borax  in  a  little  boiling  water;  add  the 
cold  water  gradually  to  the  starch;  mix  well,  then  add 
the  dissolved  borax.  Stir  before  using. 

BOILED  STARCH. 

If  tablespoons  starch,          1J  teaspoons  lard, 
cold  water,  1  teaspoon  borax,  if  used, 

1  qt.  boiling  water. 

Add  enough  cold  water  to  the  starch  to  make  a  thin, 
milky  mixture  entirely  free  from  lumps;  then  add  borax 
and  lard  and  slowly  the  boiling  water,  stirring  con- 
stantly; cook  15  minutes.  Use  starch  very  hot. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 
REAGENTS. 

Water  is  generally  known  as  the  great  dissolving  agent. 
This  particular  property  renders  it  quite  impossi- 
ble for  pure  water  to  be  found  in  nature.  The 
character  of  these  impurities  depends  entirely  upon 
the  source  from  which  the  water  is  obtained.  In 
our  every  day  laundry  work  the  impurities  which 
concern  us  most  are  soot,  dirt,  and  carbon  dioxide. 
Many  impurities  are  practically  insoluble,  and  are 
said  to  be  suspended  or  floating  in  the  water,  and 
if  left  for  a  time  they  will  settle  at  the  bottom  of  the 
vessel  and  the  clear  water  may  be  poured  off. 
Water  with  these  floating  impurities  may  also  be 
cleared  by  filtering. 

The  chief  impurity  for  our  consideration  is  carbon 
dioxide,  as  it  increases  the  solvent  power  of  water 
and  enables  it  to  disolve  limestone,  which  renders 
it  "hard."  Hence  water  may  be  called  "soft"  or 
"hard."  Soft  water  easily  forms  a  suds  with  soap, 
while  if  it  is  hard,  when  soap  is  used,  there  will  be 
a  scum  on  the  water.  Hard  water  may  be  softened 
by  using  alkalies,  as  soda  or  ammonia;  by  boiling, 
and  thus  depositing  the  minerals  which  make  it 
hard,  or  by  a  slower  method  of  exposing  to  the  air. 

Soaps  are  manufactured  by  mixing  a  fat  and  an  alkali 
(like  soda  or  potash).  The  value  of  the  soap 
depends  upon  the  alkalies  present,  and  upon  the 

(67) 


68  Laundry  Manual. 

kind  of  fat;  many  varieties  have  coloring  matters 
and  perfumes  in  addition.  Some  are  kneaded  like 
bread  dough,  therefore  they  contain  air,  and  in  that 
way  they  are  made  to  float.  It  is  more  economical 
to  buy  soap  in  large  quantities,  so  that  it  may  be 
put  in  a  moderately  warm  room  to  dry  and  harden. 

Soap  may  be  used  as  a  solid,  or  it  may  be  dis- 
solved in  water  and  used  as  a  solution.  The  action 
of  the  soap  is  more  concentrated  if  the  hard  soap 
is  rubbed  directly  on  the  material.  This  should 
only  be  done,  however,  when  the  material  is  strong 
and  without  color,  and  should  never  be  done  for 
flannel  or  woolens,  even  if  white. 

Other  agents  are  generally  used,  either  to  soften 
the  water,  whiten  the  clothes,  or  to  make  the 
rubbing  easier.  These  are  agents  whereby  the 
laundress  hopes  to  make  laundry  work  less  of  a 
drudgery. 

Washing  Soda  is  sodium  carbonate  which  is  found  in 
soda  lakes,  in  marine  plants,  but  chiefly  obtained 
from  common  salt. 

Soda,  like  soap,  has  great  cleansing  and  solvent 
powers.  It  is  for  these  reasons  that  it  gains  such 
favor  with  the  laundress  and  housekeeper.  In 
washing  greasy  material,  soda  acts  as  the  alkali 
with  the  fat,  saponifying  it  and  making  it  easily 
removable  by  water. 

Soda  should  not  be  used  with  colored  fabrics, 
because  of  fading  or  destroying  the  coloring.  It 
should  not  be  used  in  washing  flannels,  as  its  action 
is  to  harden  the  fibers  and  cause  the  flannel  to 
shrink  and  harden. 


Reagents.  69 

Soda  should  always  be  dissolved  before  coming 
in  contact  with  clothes  either  in  the  tub  or  boiler. 
It  is  of  great  assistance  in  washing  very  dirty 
clothes  but  at  no  time  should  be  used  too  abun- 
dantly as  the  action  is  hard,  if  not  on  the  clothes,  on 
the  hands.  Use  one  tablespoonful  of  soda  to  one 
gallon  of  water. 

Alum  is  used  to  clear  the  water.  One  tablespoon  of 
alum  dissolved  in  water  and  added  to  the  water 
will  precipitate  the  mud.  If  added  to  a  tub  of 
soiled  water,  it  will  precipitate  the  dirt,  so  that  the 
water  can  be  used  again,  if  water  is  very  scarce. 
(For  the  sake  of  thorough  cleanliness  not  advis- 
able.) 

Ammonia  is  used  in  softening  the  water  and  removing 
dirt  from  the  clothing.  In  its  pure  state  it  is  a 
gas;  this  gas  is  passed  into  water  and  we  have  the 
ammonia  solution  of  commerce.  It  is  a  most  use- 
ful agent  as  it  dissolves  the  grease  in  the  clothes 
and  removes  dirt.  Its  volatile  power  renders  it 
less  injurious  than  washing  soda,  as  it  does  not  re- 
main in  the  fabric  and  irritate  the  skin  or  destroy 
the  material. 

Borax  is  valuable  in  removing  dirt,  whitening  the  clothes, 
and  giving  gloss  to  them.  One-half  Ib.  to  10  gal. 
water  is  a  good  proportion  when  it  takes  the  place 
of  a  washing  powder.  It  is  a  salt,  consisting  of  an 
acid  and  soda.  It  is  not  so  violent  in  action  as  soda 
but  has  a  powerful  effect  in  softening  the  water. 
It  is  a  good  cleansing  agent  as  it  does  not  harm  the 
material  or  color;  hence  it  is  the  safest  agent  to  use 
for  delicate  fabrics  or  colored  material.  Borax 


70  Laundry  Manual. 

has  stiffening  power.  Use  1  tablespoon  of  borax 
to  8  tablespoons  of  starch.  Borax  will  aid  the  re- 
moval of  tea  and  coffee  stains,  if  used  before  the 
stain  dries. 

Kerosene  is  used  to  loosen  the  dirt,  and  may  be  added 
in  the  proportion  of  3  tablespoons  to  1  Ib.  of  soap, 
to  the  water  in  boiler. 

Lye  made  from  wood  ashes  is  used  for  softening  the 
water.. 

Paraffin  Wax  may  be  used  instead  of  kerosene  or  tur- 
pentine, for  the  washing  of  very  dirty  clothes,  in 
the  proportion  of  1  tablespoon  to  four  or  five  gal- 
lons of  water,  to  which  1  oz.  washing  soda  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  soap  has  been  added.  Paraffin 
is  a  solvent  of  grease;  it  is  volatile  but  has  a  dis- 
agreeable odor  which  clings  to  the  clothes  unless 
thoroughly  aired.  It  is  inflammable  and  should  be 
used  with  care.  Paraffin  takes  out  paint  stains, 
by  dipping  stain  in  paraffin  and  rubbing  well,  then 
wash  in  soap  and  warm  water. 

Washing  Powders  may  be  dry  soap  powders,  but  usually 
contain  an  alkali,  which  makes  them  more  effective 
in  their  work  and  cheaper  as  to  money  value. 
They  should  all  be  used  carefully,  in  order  that 
they  are  not  harmful  to  the  hands  or  the  clothes. 
Washing  powders  should  be  dissolved  before  being 
used. 

Turpentine  will  whiten  the  clothes.  It  is  volatile,  so 
its  characteristic  odor  will  not  remain  in  the  clothes. 
It  will  remove  grease,  dissolve  varnish  and,  if  used 
with  ammonia,  will  remove  paint  stains. 

Blue  or  Indigo. — Indigo  is  made  from  a  plant  which 


Reagents.  71 

comes  from  Calcutta,  Egypt  and  Guatemala.  "The 
leaves  and  stems  are  covered  with  water  and  left 
to  ferment.  When  fermentation  ceases,  the  liquor 
is  drawn  off  and  violently  agitated  until  the  color 
is  changed,  when  the  indigo  separates  in  the  form 
of  solid  particles,"  Ultramarine,  azure,  Prussian 
and  indigo  are  the  solid  blues  most  used.  Ultra- 
marine is  the  one  most  widely  used  and  is  the  best. 
It  is  insoluble  in  water  and  gives  a  tint  by  means  of 
a  very  fine  powder  which  enters  the  cloth.  Any 
of  the  blues  are  used  to  counteract  the  yellow  from 
the  soap.  Garments  should  be  thoroughly  shaken 
out  before  going  into  the  blue  water.  Prussian 
Blue  is  a  chemical  compound  containing  iron.  If 
Prussian  Blue  is  used,  the  clothes  must  be  very 
thoroughly  rinsed  before  putting  into  the  blue 
water,  as  the  alkali  of  the  soap  decomposes  the 
iron  compound  and  the  result  is  seen  in  iron  rust, 
and  sometimes  in  a  yellowish  tint  over  the  clothes. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
OUTLINE  OF  LAUNDRY  COURSES. 

These  outlines  are  given  as  an  aid  to  instructors. 
Three  hour  periods  are  the  most  satisfactory  for  laundry 
work.  The  classes  should  average  eight  students. 

First  Course. 
I.     Make  Javelle  Water,  Detergent,  Soap,  and  give 

general  notes. 
II.    Removal  of  stains. 
Wash. 
Table  Linen. 

1  table  cloth  for  every  four  students. 
1  napkin  for  each  student. 
1  doylie  for  each  student. 

III.  Wash. 

Bed  Linen. 

1  sheet  for  every  four  students. 
1  pillow  case  for  each  student. 
Iron. 
Table  cloth,  napkins  and  doylies. 

IV.  Wash. 

Drawers  and  stockings. 
Iron. 
Sheets  and  pillow  cases. 

V.     Wash. 

Towels  and  plain  colored  pieces. 
Iron. 
Drawers  and  stockings. 

(72) 


Outline  of  Laundry  Courses.  73 

VI.     Wash. 

Nightdress  and  corset  covers. 
Iron. 
Towel  and  colored  clothes. 

VII.     Wash. 

Flannel  underwear. 
Iron. 
Nightdress  and  corset  covers. 

VIII.     Wash. 

Embroideries. 
Iron. 
Embroideries  and  flannels. 

• 

Second  Course. 

I.     Wash. 

White  skirts. 
Wash  and  Iron. 

Doylies  and  drawn  work. 

II.     Wash. 

Shirtwaists. 
Iron. 
White  skirts. 

III.     Wash. 

Knit  and  crocheted  articles  and  flannel  waists. 
Iron. 
Shirtwaists. 

IV.     Wash. 

Woolen  dress  goods,  down  quilt,  and  blankets. 
Iron. 
Flannel  waists. 


74  Laundry  Manual. 

V.     Wash. 

Collars  and  cuffs,  child's  dress,  ribbons. 
Finish  quilt  and  blankets. 
VI.     Wash. 

Silks. 
Iron. 

Silks,  collars  and  cuffs,  child's  dress. 
VII.     Wash. 

Laces,  lace  curtains. 
VIII.     Wash. 

Collarettes,  stocks,  handkerchiefs. 
Iron. 

Collarettes,  stocks,  handkerchiefs. 
Finish  lace  curtains. 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

Altar  linen 59 

Alum 69 

water. 67 

Ammonia 69 

Aprons .*  35 

Bed  linen 29 

Black  lace 54 

Bichloride  of  mercury 60 

Blankets 42,43 

Bleaching 64 

Blue 70 

Bluing 8 

Body  linen 35 

Boiling 7,  14,45,60 

Borax 69 

Bran  water  recipe 64 

Carbolic  acid 61 

Cleansing 56 

Cold  starch 8,  46 

Collars 45 

Colored  clothes -51 

Corrosive  sublimate 60 

Corset  covers 35,  36 

Cottas 59 

Cretonnes 58 

Cuffs 46 

Detergent 56 

recipe t 65 

Diapers 41 

Disinfectants 60 

Down  quilts 58 

Doylies 29 

Drawers 33,35,36,41 

Eiderdown 57 

Embroideries 35,  36,  53 

Flannels 42,43,49 

Folding 9,  16,  17 

chemises  (PL  5) 39 


PAGE 

Folding: 

corset  covers  (PL  4) 37 

drawers  (PL  3) 33 

handkerchiefs 29 

napkins 26 

nightdresses  (PL  2) 31 

pillow  cases 30 

sheets 30 

shirts  (PL  6) 47 

shirt  waists 45 

skirts 36,41 

Folding  table  linen  (PL  1). . .  27 

Formic  aldehyde 61 

Gasoline 59 

General  directions 11,12 

Gum  water  recipe 64 

Hanging 9,  15 

corset  covers 36 

drawers 36 

flannels .'....  43 

nightdresses , . . .  36 

pillow  cases 30 

sheets 30 

shirt  waists 46 

skirts , , 36 

stockings 52 

tablecloths 26 

Handkerchiefs 29,  35,  55 

Irons 9 

kinds  of 9 

care  of 10 

Ironing 16 

collars 49 

corset  covers 41 

cuffs 49 

drawers 41 

embroideries 36,  53 

flannels. .  43 


(75) 


76 


Index. 


PAGE 
Ironing: 

handkerchiefs 41 

laces 55 

napkins 30 

nightdresses 41 

pillow  cases 30 

sheets 30 

shirts ....       46 

shirt  waists 49 

silks 57 

skirts.. 41 

tablecloths 29 

Javelle  water 54,  64 

recipe 64 

Kerosene 70 

Kid  gloves 59 

Laces 54 

Lace  curtains 54,  55 

Laundry  rules 7 

Laundry: 

equipment  of 11 

outline  of 72 

Lye 70 

Napkins 26 

Nightdress 31,  35,  36,  41 

Outline  for  teachers 72 

of  laundry 12 

Paraffin 70 

Pillow  cases 30 

Recipes. 62 

Alum  water.  .... ;.V 69 

Bran  water 64 

Detergent *.*.*.' 65 

Gum  Water 64 

Javelle  water 64 

Starch: 

boiled 66 

clear.  .'..".. 54 

cold. 66 

Ribbons.  . 58 

Rinsing.. 7 

colored  clothes 45,  5 1 

flannels. . . . . 43 

silks..... 56 

Sheets 29,30 

Shirts 45,46 

Shirt  waists 45,  49,  50 


PAGE 

Silks 49,56,57 

Skirts 35,36,41 

Soaking 14 

Soap. 15,67 

recipes 63 

toilet  soap 63 

soap  for  blankets 43 

Soda 68 

Sorting 13 

Sprinkling 9,  36 

collars. 46 

cuffs 46 

muslin  embroideries 36 

table  linen 26 

Stains.  . . 13,  18-25 

Starching 8,35,50 

aprons 35 

collars. . . . 46 

corset  covers 36 

cuffs 46 

drawers 36 

laces ..'..' 54 

nightdresses 36 

shirts 46 

shirt  waists 45,  46 

skirts 36 

Stockings 52 

Stretching  lace  curtains 55 

Surplices 59 

Table  linen 26 

Table  cloths. 29 

Towels. 41 

Tray  cloths :........ 29 

Turpentine. ...............   70 

Utensils,  care  of 9 

Velvets.... ./ 57 

Washing ...7,13,15 

colored  embroideries 53 

corset  covers 35 

cretonnes 58 

diapers.  . 41 

down  quilts .  . 58 

doylies 29 

drawers '..'..' 35 

eiderdown 57 

flannels 42 

laces 54 


Index. 


77 


PAGE 

Washing: 

napkins 26 

nightdresses 35 

pillow  cases 29 

ribbons 58 

sheets 29 

shirts 45 

shirt  waists 45 

silks..                                  .  56 


PAGE 

Washing: 

skirts 35 

stockings 52 

tablecloths 26 

tray  cloths 29 

woolen  goods 56 

Washing  powders 70 

Water 69 

Woolen  goods 56 


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